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Author Topic: 24v power at last - I'm so proud!  (Read 3035 times)

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Offline Theojw71

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24v power at last - I'm so proud!
« on: 06, July, 2014 - 23:21:19 »
Hi. Just sitting down to get this event on record before bedtime.

I have fitted the Porter 10, Magura throttle, single core 6mm wiring and leads pack to my C5 tonight. I jacked up the rear chassis on bricks, attached my new LifePo4 24v 30ah battery and BMS, and fired her up.

It was beautiful, like test-firing the Saturn 5 rocket engine for the first time. It WORKED. And the speed, and the power, and the control  ;D ;D ;D

Much still to do. I have to source some suitable monitoring source for current and temperature (Touch-screen looks fantastic, but I won't attempt it unless I can get someone to talk me through), and I also need to source a suitably powerful 24v heat-sink fan to cool the motor. I plan to wire that straight to the power circuit (hence 24v), so the fan kicks in when the motor does.

I've a CPT 24v/12v converter on its way so I can use the existing accessories without needing another battery; still to wire back in the indicators, LED front and rear lights, and maybe the talking perimeter-alarm I've got my eye on  :D ;)

Until then, though, the big thing is getting the wiring tidy, tied up to the chassis (all the old wiring for the POD is already off it now), and putting a date in my diary for the first Bonneville Salt Flats test-run - 30mph here we come!!!!!

Oh and my 12" steel wheel rim arrives tomorrow or Tuesday, so I can stop as fast as I will be able to go.

Offline jockywilson11

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Re: 24v power at last - I'm so proud!
« Reply #1 on: 07, July, 2014 - 17:39:19 »
Well done!

You could wire in a 12v computer fan once you get the 12v sorted out. I'd advise you keep the fan on all the time to avoid any heat build up when the motor stops.
The original system uses a bi-metallic switch to cut the motor power if the motor overheats, the device clipped to the side with the metal clip with the orange wires. It might be worth wiring that in the throttle circuit to the controller as as safety measure. To monitor current and voltage I just use a simple volt meter/ ammeter from eBay. The one I have is a 50v DC 200amp one with a 200A shunt fitted in series with the Negative cable works a treat, and fits nicely in the old pod case.

Cheers John