C5ALIVE Forum
C5Alive General Category => C5 Gallery => C5 Pimping ! => Topic started by: KarlG on 22, October, 2012 - 15:48:09
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Well seeing as I'm going to restore and modify my C5 I thought it might be a good idea to include this under the 'Pimping' theme.
Seeing that I'll be doing all the spraying myself and I don't have a booth or heated garage, it's going to be quite some time before the job is finished. I have a few mods in mind so at least I'll be busy over the winter months. :)
I've almost finished stripping to C5 down, thanks to the help from Chas's YT video. Chas covered 98% of the strip-down, but 1 of the remaining 2% was concerning the removal of the POD, this has me stumped. The remaining 1% is the removal of the peddle shaft retaining components on the near side, are they also LHT or RHT. as per off side?
A last question, for the moment, can the plastic steering couplings be removed from the rod without damage?
Seeing that the parts are to be stored for some time in a garage I've stored all the small and medium sized parts in airtight containers.
Cheers till the next post. KarlG.
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For the pod, disconnect the loom from the back of the pod - hold the wires at the back and pull away from the pod firmly, and the connector should come off.
To remove the pod, just hold the pod on each end and firmly pull towards the seat. It should just slide off if you are quite firm. There are 2 plastic washers that will probably come off too (if not, just check around the lugs the pod was attached to and remove them, as they'll fall off eventually), and store them until required.
Hope that helps a bit. I haven't done the other 2 myself yet, so don't know the procedures.
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Once again thanks. :-* ;D
Cable's removed as well as the shell, but the POD's still attached to the shell.
I thought this was the way, but when I tried I was worried about breaking something if I was using the wrong procedure. I did notice that on one side the washer was missing, so I can assume that the POD's been removed at some time or other.
One thing's for sure, the POD is VERY DEAD. :(
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Hi there Karl just give it good pull from one side at a time ..spray a little WD40 first it should help (make sure that the cable is off first)
...bye Chas
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Hi Chas,
Thanks for the info.
How about the the peddle shaft retaining components on the near side, are they also LHT or RHT as per off side?
EDIT: OK! Problem solved, found the answer in 'TECH TIPS from C5Martin'. BUT, I would still like to know if the plastic steering couplings be removed from the rod without damage.
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Hi there karl the plastic cups on the rod have been molded on and will shatter if you try to remove them ..The only way is to get a rod with metal cups on they are removable ...
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Hi Chas,
one again thanks for the info.
Were metal cupped rods also fitted to the C5, or is this a post mod?
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There where two types made plastic and metal ....
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OK olé! Many thanks.
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I'm very suprised at the number of posts concerning motor heat and yet all but one of the photos I've looked at none of the motors are painted mat black.
I have a couple of 5mm wide strips of copper, so as long as my C5 is stripped I intend to use one strip to make a jacket for the motor. With the other strip I hope to be able to add fining to the jacket. I was going to fit a tube between the fan and the motor to improve the forced air ventilation, but I think it may be better to leave the tube out allowing an air flow over the fining. After the motor and gearbox have been greased I'll fit the jacket and spray the whole lot mat black.
I could even get rid of some of the heat transfer paste that's collected over the years. :)
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I have looked into fining but found the best solution appears to be forced air in an enclosed jacket - let us know how you get on - Marty
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Hi Marty,
do you have any pics or drawings?
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I have a photo of an enclosed air cooled unit thst ran on 24v at Brooklands and worked well -I will try and find it
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I have a photo of an enclosed air cooled unit thst ran on 24v at Brooklands and worked well -I will try and find it
..if you are thinking of "Challenger", the pictures are on this link ;)
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,559.msg4407.html#msg4407
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Wow! If that's the cooling that Marty's referring to I'll have to have a radical rethink. ::)
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There is available cheaply in car accessory shops a finned alumium sleeve designed as an oil cooling device for oil filters: can't remember its brand name. It may fit onto the motor and offer a bolt-on solution.(its held on by the supplied jubilee )
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As Karl has shown Challenger is an excellent example of air cooling working well
Jim's 24v has a simple but very effective solution - Hope he won't mind me posting this :
(http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad49/radiomarty/20120916_151835.jpg)
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The product mentioned by Coverman - however I think forced air is best. (haven't checked the dimensions to see if these fit yet)
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/oil_filter_cooler.htm
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@ Coverman,
thanks for the tip, but they may be just a wee bit on the small side. They quote up to 96mm, the C5 motor is a fraction over 100mm. If opened up and forced on they may no sit correctly, even with the clamping band. Pity, they look quite good and there's enough meat for 2 motors. I'll have to think about this one. :-\
@ Marty,
thanks for the photo and link. This is the configuration that I had first planned, but was going to fit a larger tube to allow the airflow to pass over the fining. After having a good look at the motor I see that there is ample provision for an air inlet at the rear end, but very little to provide an outlet at the gearbox end. So it's looks like I will have to revert to my original idea (as per your photo). :-\ :-\ :-\
P.S. You should never have provided that link, just wasted over an hour goggling at the goodies. :o BUT, I did find something that I can use, that is if I can't find it here. :-X
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@ Marty,
P.S. You should never have provided that link, just wasted over an hour goggling at the goodies. :o BUT, I did find something that I can use, that is if I can't find it here. :-X
[/quote]
I spent several hours on there too :) :)
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I want to add a sub-frame to the rear of the C5 for a trailer hitch. I can't add to the top of the frame due to the components mounted there on, the middle of the frame is out because of the down tubes, so this leaves the bottom. I'm hoping to add a disk brake at the rear, so I can disperser with the rear brake fittings.
Now I'm wondering if the frame will be strong and rigid enough to do this. The max all up trailer weight will not be in excess of 40Kg.
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All sorts of goodies were delivered today, amongst other things two sets of Schwalbe City-Jets. And at long last, over a year now :o, my daughter delivered C5 #1 along with all the spares I've collected.
So as soon as possible #1 will be stripped and I'll be using the best parts from both units to produce C5 #1.5. ;D ;D
EDIT: One thing I managed to pick up from evilBay.de is a dedicated two pin LED flasher unit. I'll have to wait for delivery before I can test it and find out just how much current it needs to draw in order to operate at the correct frequency.
P.S. Karl, sending an email concerning Schwalbe 16"ers.
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Things have slowed down due to the rotten weather, but the spares for #1 and #2 are still tricking in. The spare 'old new stock' motor arrived OK, but is still not tested. The off side mirror for #1 has disappeared and if I have to buy just this one it'll be a hell of a job to to find a single item. I've now got the mirrors I wanted for #2, but the price for #1's indicators was beyond my pocket. :'( :'(
@ Marty. At least I doubled your win on the indicators for you. 8)
Work continues on #2, the motor conversion, plus I now have a complete replacement driven wheel.
I need the CB from #1 so I can test the POD from #2. I tried to remove the inspection cover from the CB, but 3 of the screws are so rusted that there is no way I can use a screwdriver. So when it doesn't rain I'll have to gently drill the heads off.
Well just hope that it doesn't rain too much next week. ::)
P.S. I did a physical checked on the LED flasher and found out that it's a solid state device. So I assume that the flash rate will be constant regardless of the number of attached LEDs.
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Hi Karl I do have one odd mirror somewhere - will have a look and see what side it is and give you first refusal - Marty
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Hi Marty,
I read your post some time back, but it appears that I missed giving you a reply.
I have to check with my daughter and get her to double check if she's overlooked it, and also check my celler as I my have stored it there by mistake. If I have no luck I'll be in contact with you, but it would be nice if, in the meantime, you can keep it on the backburner for me.
Cheers. KarlG.
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Hi Karl - Have found it - the mirror has aged a bit and its for the LH side so I think maybe you require the RH side ?
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Well it looks like it's Xmas once again, second time this year. :D A Weather-Cheater arrived today, crushed and jammed into an envelope, looks like I'll have to drag out the ironing board and iron. :o Don't worry I know the correct way to get rid of the crinkles. ;)
The other thing that arrived, at last, is the bicycle computer from China, quite nice but the displayed info is a wee bit on the small side for a C5. No sweat I'll just have to wear some attachable binoculars, or obtain a Fresnel screen. ::)
The other thing is I need to get my Xmas list off to Santa Chas before it's too late. :)
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Hi Marty,
thanks for the quick reply. You are, unfortunately, dead right, it's the RHS one.