C5ALIVE Forum
C5Alive General Category => C5 Chatroom => Topic started by: lotus 30 on 02, October, 2013 - 12:59:35
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At last i have finished my restoration of the albatross speed boat and now i have stripped the body off the C5. The mechanics are all pretty good so no probs there.
But the wiring i will need advice on, When i disconnect the the motor from the control module can i put a 12V supply direct to test it.
When i stripped down the chassis the last owner must have put a pair of wires direct from a battery to the motor without disconnecting the module will this have caused damage?
Next how do i put pics on my post
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This afternoon i have stripped and cleaned the drive motor tested and all is fine all the nylon gears are in good order. Next is the main control box one component looks to be a little burnt. so back to it and get the board out of the box.
At last i have finished my restoration of the albatross speed boat and now i have stripped the body off the C5. The mechanics are all pretty good so no probs there.
But the wiring i will need advice on, When i disconnect the the motor from the control module can i put a 12V supply direct to test it.
When i stripped down the chassis the last owner must have put a pair of wires direct from a battery to the motor without disconnecting the module will this have caused damage?
Next how do i put pics on my post
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hot spots on the control board it looks as if D1 is shot what does that do.and Fs2 fuse has blown. the rest looks to be ok. andy b
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Hi - DI is an IN5401 diode which gives the relay some smoothing and prevents it arcing -Easy replacement. Check the back of the board for damaged tracks these are often found when there are signs of burning. Next check R1 often open circuit and prevents 12v getting to the regulator - once this is ok check IC1 which is the voltage regulator connected to the big heatsink - you should see 12v going in and 5v coming out. Once this is all ok the only real problem areas are : The op amp IC2 , TR1 , TR2 AND TR3 apart from that its rare for anything eles to play up - Good luck and let us know how it goes - Marty
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Brill Thanks for the reply only D1 has blown and fuse Fs 2 everything else looks clean and fine no burnt areas. Do you have these parts will it be safe to put power to the board with D1 shot to do the other test's. I just use common sense to look at wiring but i do not pretend to understand electronics, or computers. andy b
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I do have the part but you can get them from maplins etc and save postage - they are inexpensive - Let me know if you want me to supply them otherwise - You wont see a lot happening with the fuse blown so best bet get the bits you know are duff replaced first then power up to see where you are - I'm quite happy to talk you through the repair if you are handy with a soldering iron -Marty
This may be helpful :
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,1320.msg10297.html#msg10297
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My nearest maplin is cardiff it will cost fuel and time to go there so if you are able to take the trouble to post them i would be grateful as i live near chepstow I can give you my address if you mail me direct at andrew.bradshaw432@btinternet.com. thanks for the help andy b
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Ok bud no problem will email you when I get back home - I have hung up my repair tools but am happy to send you parts and help where I can -Marty
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My C5 has had the electrical wiring messed with. What does a std C5 come with regarding electrical components. is there an isolator switch or do you connect the battery and go radio marty is helping with the pod. As i have never had a good look at a running C5 i do not know what is correct or what should be removed. any one near the seven bridge so i could pop along and have a look. andy b
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The latest prob is the chassis has had a front end thump. and caused some crumpling of the steering head where it is welded to the main chassis.
To fix this i have pushed a solid bar down the front fork tube. placed the bar in the vice and pulled the chassis straight. Which has worked very well.
I have also repaired the chain tensioner and fitted a u shaped piece of steel under the jockey wheel and fixed with the jockey wheel fixing bolt. This will stop the chain coming unshipped. I am waiting for some bits from radio marty to have a go at fixing the electronics. Is there a key switch or such like in the circuit. andy b
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They have been posted bud :)
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My C5 has had the electrical wiring messed with. What does a std C5 come with regarding electrical components. is there an isolator switch or do you connect the battery and go radio marty is helping with the pod. As i have never had a good look at a running C5 i do not know what is correct or what should be removed. any one near the seven bridge so i could pop along and have a look. andy b
Hi I am new to all this too. My C5 has a key switch for the battery. We finally got the circuit board working at the weekend, thanks to some wire and some solder, although the pod now needs looking at. It seemed to have had some sort of fire. You need to be really carful to make sure you get the pollarity right.
There are some battery wiring kits on ebay to help otherwise
Dad.
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Hi Dad LOL
Any chance you could send me detail pics of the wiring showing where things are positioned please andrew.bradshaw432@btinternet.com.
many thanks marty got to find my soldering iron now should be interesting andy b
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Gave up the soldering Radio Marty has the job. Next problem has any one got a rear wheel bearing for the free wheel side only one on mine andy b
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Radio Marty saves us all :) He's an electrical genius.
Retro Andy.