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Motor not working control box had new R1 & D1 fitted but relay not working
mr-c5:
Hi again,
I had a quick read but been doing the motor tonight. Took it off and separated it. Bushes were bit stuck in housings, age and spiders webs. I got them free and working. Noticed some of the the armature stack teeth have some grooving, well trenches really! Anyway put it back together and it now runs. So that's raised a smile.
Battery is okay as it has run the other C5. It's only a small 24ah 12V but carries almost 13v when charged and is sitting at 12.85v just now having run the motor a minute or so stop starting it and been used testing things this last week or so. I mentioned I fitted the pod onto my known working C5 and that seems okay. The pod end red cables pins don't appear corroded but that is I know a tricky one to see/call.
Did I mention the left bank of lights (motor ones) all flash on then off repeatedly except the end two amber ones which stay on which is'nt right, on the good C5 just the amber ones illuminate which I believe is normal. I said the right hand side led's extinguish over the period of a minute and the buzzer goes off, they all re-illuminate after that and start extinguishing again but no buzzer, this cycles. Doesn't happen when pods on the other C5. When I press the button nothing happens, no relay click, so no motor and no pod light change.
I know I tested the relay clicks in isolation and I said the motor flashed momentarily once but does this relay have a diode in it? Could that be a factor if it's gone? I'm unsure what the op-amp is but happy to get a desolder pump (used to have one many years ago)
C5mick was very kind & generous sending me resistors and diodes and yes I did raise the items I fitted off the boards surface. Really pleased to receive everyone's help btw it's appreciated!
Mark
KarlG:
Hi Mark,
so we have eliminated the battery, harness and ULA, this leaves the co-amp. As I mentioned that if the op-amp is not dead but just about ready to meet it's creator, it can cause spurious signals. This will cause the ULA to react the way it is at the moment. With the relay located at the bottom of the board you will see a small black rectangular object located just above the relay, this is the op-amp its marked IC2.
Could you please conduct one more test before you go any further. With everything connected, including battery, test over a period of about 1 minute the voltage between pin 1 on connector X9 and X1. You should have a steady 5v.
Connector X9 is the small one located on the upper left hand side, pin 1 is located on the right hand side (inner side) of the connector, and X1 is the stud located on the top left hand side.
I'm more than a bit shot at the moment, I arose at 4am and its now almost 12:30 (CET) so I'm not thinking very straight to say the least.
I'll read the rest of your post later today.
OK ole.
Karl.
mr-c5:
Hi Karl,
voltage was 5.02v with no change over a period of a couple minutes.
Off to bed now as it's gone midnight
Many thanks
Mark
KarlG:
Hi Mark,
so it looks like the op-amp is the main suspect at the moment.
Karl.
mr-c5:
Okay Karl so can anything on it be tested? Think Mick sent me one of those with it's own socket.
Are you in Germany? Just looked at your profile.
Mark
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