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Author Topic: Which battery?  (Read 12103 times)

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Offline mr-c5

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #15 on: 23, January, 2015 - 13:11:39 »
Thanks Karl, will try mine and see, only using a small 24ah battery freebie until I source something else so was going to make a set of battery leads with 6mm ring crimp connectors until I get a suitable sized leisure battery, is there a wiring schematic for creating reverse polarity protection leads for a C5 anywhere?
Thanks
Mark

Offline KarlG

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #16 on: 23, January, 2015 - 16:41:09 »
Hi Mark,

I've never seen a circuit for the reverse polarity protection in the forum, but this doesn't mean there isn't one, try the search function.

C5Alive shop are offering them, and I've also seen them in ebay.

I could supply you one, but I don't know if I would be contravening the forum regs. :-\

Offline mr-c5

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #17 on: 23, January, 2015 - 20:34:34 »
thanks for that kind offer Karl, I don't mind making one myself, was just hoping to see a tried and tested combination of parts and a schematic as it's a fairly common requirement these days I'd imagine. I could incorporate a buzzer to indicate when polarity was reversed but that might make me jump out of my skin every time lol

Offline KarlG

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #18 on: 23, January, 2015 - 20:52:39 »
Hi Mark,

OK ole. Av phun. ;D ;D

Cheers.

KarlG.

Offline mr-c5

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #19 on: 25, January, 2015 - 21:38:38 »
Well I took a spin, did a few miles then got the beep, took a reading of 12.4v however I disconnected and reconnected and the pod lights reset and off I went again but only a few hundred yards then I was home but on the last red led. So there is a reset of sorts. Just thought to share :)

Offline KarlG

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #20 on: 26, January, 2015 - 04:59:34 »
Hi Mark,

if your C5 hasn't been modified then you should have two wires connected to the plus pole.  The hefty lead is solely the motor supply, the thin lead is connected to X5 in the CB, and as long as you don't switch off, it's supplying voltage to the pod via the CB. If this supply is not cut off the ULA ((in the pod) retains the last settings, should you disconnect this wire all settings are lost and you start from square one again.

Of course if you only have one connection from the plus pole connected to X2 and X5, or disconnect the plus or minus leads from the battery, then the ULA settings will be reset on each disconnection.

Offline jockywilson11

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #21 on: 27, January, 2015 - 12:35:08 »

I would still say buy one from Chas, he'll supply it made up and give you a switch and a bracket to suit, and you won't fry your pod!

Cheers John
« Last Edit: 27, January, 2015 - 12:59:08 by jockywilson11 »

Offline mr-c5

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #22 on: 31, January, 2015 - 08:38:46 »
I figured X2 was involved as power runs from battery separate to the ignition. I've got a control box in bits at the moment as I have two and one doesn't go so been trying to troubleshoot, looks like R1 isn't doing much and D1 is cracked so will replace them. I could buy a lead and change the connectors but I just fancied making a pair if I can. This was one protection diagram I came across but I guess you don't need the LED so a 4 pin relay could be used and the circuit changed. http://www.edn.com/design/analog/4368527/Simple-reverse-polarity-protection-circuit-has-no-voltage-drop
I've also had a nice C5alive member help in diagnosing and identifying resistors and so on which was greatly appreciated.
Mark
« Last Edit: 31, January, 2015 - 09:20:04 by mr-c5 »

Offline KarlG

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #23 on: 31, January, 2015 - 11:32:18 »
Hi Mark,

This circuit is OK, but you need to add a switch between D2 and +,  or between D1 and -. The other point is you need a unswitched connection between + and X5. You can eliminate this cable if you bridge X5 to X2 in the CB, but by doing this the stored data in the ULA is lost each time you switch off. Make sure you use a high power relay, min. 60a.

If D1 is cracked it's a good indication of reversed polarity connection. this may also result in other components being damaged.
« Last Edit: 31, January, 2015 - 18:02:48 by KarlG »

Offline mr-c5

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #24 on: 01, February, 2015 - 16:26:55 »
Thanks Karl,
these ones have the original keyswitches fitted so a reverse polarity unlikely? The chap had them from new and only used Sinclair batteries so far as I know and not been used in probably 20+ years I'd think. I've now changed R1 and D1 and the pod now illuminates (didn't before) although the leds slowly extinguish on the battery gauge then the timer alarm for low battery sounds after a few minutes. So I've a few issues here I'm just working through slowly lol.
Mark

Offline radiomarty

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #25 on: 01, February, 2015 - 17:05:27 »
Hi I have repaired numerous control boxes and I always replace D1-  it seems to become brittle through heat and is also damaged if the c5 is pushed / ridden backwards at more than a walking pace and as Karl says reverse polarity -The battery looping in the pod is normally a bad connection at the pins of the red harness or sadly a defective ULA - if you need any help advice with the repairs feel free to ask Regards Marty
« Last Edit: 01, February, 2015 - 17:48:30 by radiomarty »

Offline mr-c5

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #26 on: 01, February, 2015 - 17:58:06 »
Many thanks radiomarty,
i'm new to them as you will have gathered. I have a C5 that works fine and this one,  both bought untried locally from someone I know but didn't know he had these (from new) until I put the feelers out for one! He couldn't remember if they both went when I asked. Before I changed D1 & R1 the pod did not illuminate, fuse FS2 was blown so I replaced it and then a relay clicked when button pressed but the motor just had the odd spark and jerk but no go so will take it apart to clean it up and inspect. The battery low buzzer went off after a few minutes too which I thought unusual. Removed control box and changed D1 & R1 then refitted the control box. The pod now illuminates but the motor relay doesn't click! 12v power is at x12 when button pressed and relay tested in isolation works. So maybe its the other side of the circuit not working now or issues with the pod are having an effect so any diagnostic suggestions are really welcomed! I like to try and fix things myself whenever I can but appreciate I'm not an electronics whizz! PS should I make this a new post as it's sort of run away!?
Mark

Offline KarlG

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #27 on: 01, February, 2015 - 18:43:56 »
Hi Mark,

you may well find the problem with the motor is caused by the bushes being seized in their housings, this is a common problem with C5s that have been standing around for a long time. If you look into the rear of the motor the bushes are visible. With care use a small screwdriver, or something similar, and see if you can ease the brushes back from the armature. If they don't move, or move but don't return then they are corroded.  The other possibility is they are worn and there is insufficient pressure from the springs to make a good contact.

A couple of questions, how good is the condition of your battery, and do you have a multimeter?

As Marty commented, never push the C5 backwards quickly, this can only result in damage to the CB.

Offline radiomarty

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #28 on: 01, February, 2015 - 18:51:12 »
Hi - yes maybe best to start a new post on this one.Karl is correct you need to first check your motor is working correctly. You can prove this by directly connecting it to the battery and if no good investigate the bushes as described. Once the motor is confirmed it would be good to know what indication the pod is giving when the go button is pressed - ps recheck the fuses if you had a splutter and spark - Regards Marty

Offline KarlG

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Re: Which battery?
« Reply #29 on: 01, February, 2015 - 21:07:38 »
Hi Mark,

there's one thing I find strange, you mentioned that to begin with when you replace FS2 the relay was working, and only after you replaced D1 & R1 it stopped working. Sounds like the problem lies in the pod.

There is no point in two of us trying to sort the problem out, so I'll back off and leave it to Marty.

Av phun.  :)