Topic: HEEEELP!!

[mike7201]

Again, for continued patience and support I thank you!  I'll try it.

[mike7201]

Hooray!  I think I've done it...

Now.  How to get the belt back on?  I tried before adding the cable ties to secure the fence, and afterwards.  The belt has absolutely no give, and it won't allow me to attach it to the gearbox.

What's wrong, and how can I attach it?

Please advise.  Photos would help, although I hate to ask unless they're readily available.

[Karl]

The belt is a tight fit so you will not be able to "stretch" it over both the gearbox and large cogs at the same time.

Everyone seems to develop their own method, I tend to fit the belt over the gearbox cog first, then feed the belt onto the large white cog whilst slowly rotating it.

It is physically difficult , and takes a few attempts to get the knack - but persevere and you'll get there 

[mike7201]

Thanks Karl, I'll try as you suggest.  I did think about placing the belt in hot water to soften it a little to allow a more flexible approach.  Should I grease it, or should it remain dry?

Talking of grease.  Can I use WD40 on moving metal parts?  If so, I'll be sure to spray everything I can.

Still can't get the wheel to go back flush with the arch like the other side.  The pipe is now securely in leaving little metal showing to the eye.  Everything else appears as it should.

I think once I get the brake cables, I should be good to go again.

[Karl]

..Still can't get the wheel to go back flush with the arch like the other side.
 

That could be a concern, have you put the wheel on the right way round ? It shouldn't be standing proud of the wheel arch 

[mike7201]

Yep, it's definitely fitted the right way.  I should point out that before I removed the wheel to take pictures days ago, it wasn't loose or sticking any further out than the other side.

Don't know what to do.

[Umpa]

Fitting the belt is not easy. You might have the motor twisted to far. Remember that you adjust the belt tension by turning the motor in the White plasic housing.

I fit mine by the big gear first, I pull the gear out so the inside is level with the little cogs outside, I line up the teath, and then rotate the gear to the left whilst pushing the gear in.

It takes a bit of practice, like Karl says there is more
than one way to do it, and it's very hard to start with.

You will get better at it - trust me lol.

[Durango2k]

Maybe the metal part inside the wheel is wrong way up ?

Please, help US in helping you, and make some pictures of the sitution.

Belt: I feed it round the large coge, cause I can rotate it anticlockwise free, and then I put it on the small one. Then I rotate the large one with my right hand, the left hand thumb feeds the belt on the small one. Once it goes there completeley round for 2 mm depths I won. Just turn and turn the large one, see that it won't slip of the small one and you're done. Finally, after 10 turns you can see how it would run on the small one - I mean it's overlap / non-overlapping area. The non- o is to be MINIMAL, cause the belt will tear then where the borderline is. So you goal is to adjust, again, by washers'n spacers, the large wheel, so that the belt rides FULLY on the small one. If so, AND the gearbox is supported by the fence, and the belt has maximum tension, THEN it is 100%.
Carsten

[mike7201]

Sorry for the delay in replying.  When I get home in the evenings at the moment it's dark, and my camera says that the light levels are too low to take pictures.  Sure enough, even though I try, the results are fruitless to say the least.

This evening I had to do the grocery shopping, so I've been a bit slack at getting my C5 sorted.  However, I have a few days off now so will try to update as soon as I can.

Thanks again.

[mike7201]

I did it! 

Thanks so much for all your help and guidance, throughout what I thought was the end of my C5!

As requested, here's an image which shows the left rear (motor side) wheel which appears slightly further out than the one on the right.  Having said this, I think it's better now, than it was last time.

What do you think?


It doesn't let you see both wheels from the back of the C5, so perhaps I'll need to re-take the images.

Thanks again.

[MattC5]

I think Umpa and Karl did a fantastic job on this problem - It was good for us newbies to read as we were learning too !!!

[Umpa]

Hi Mike,

glad you did it, I see you have the usual teltail signs that the drive train has been off (black grease marks) lol

well done dude I knew you would Suss it. 

[mike7201]

Thanks again...

Now for the two last things...

1.  Replacing the new rear brake which arrived today.
2.  Re-fit wing mirrors

I have a brake cable here for the rear brake.  It's got a bare cable at one end, and a metal ball-type end at the other.  I have managed to get the ball-type end into the handle, but need to know how to get it to stay put when I've attached the other end to the bolt. 

Any ideas?

[mike7201]

  I see you have the usual teltail signs that the drive train has been off (black grease marks) lol

Yep, it was reasonably clean before that.  My God isn't it tricky to remove?  I've tried so hard to keep my C5 clean, yet whenever I touch it, it's dirty!!

My hands have been black for days.  Not completely, but whatever it is, is sticking to my fingers like super-glue, and isn't coming off no matter how often I wash my hands!  It's fading slightly each day, but it don't half get on yer!

[Karl]

Thanks again...

Now for the two last things...

1.  Replacing the new rear brake which arrived today.
2.  Re-fit wing mirrors

I have a brake cable here for the rear brake.  It's got a bare cable at one end, and a metal ball-type end at the other.  I have managed to get the ball-type end into the handle, but need to know how to get it to stay put when I've attached the other end to the bolt. 

Any ideas?

Instructions for fitting the wing mirrors (courtesy of Roy Woodwards site) ;
http://www.sinclairc5.com/acc_inst/acc_inst_mirrors.htm

Fitting the brake cables is almost the same as for fitting to an ordinary bicycle.

For the rear brake, make sure the outer cable and ferrule is close to the brake lever

Feed the cable through to the adjuster that sits on the chassis near to the rear wheel. Push the inner cable through the adjuster and through the retaining bolt that sits on the end of the small lever. I always push the small lever towards the c5 until its almost at a right angle to the chassis. Pull the inner cable tight, then tighten up the retaining bolt. Squeeze the brake lever to take out the slack, loosen up the retaining bolt and pull the inner cable tight once more. Tighten the retaining bolt, trim off the excess inner cable and fit the lead end cap to stop the cable fraying.

Adjusting the rear brake so that the handbrake works and avoiding an annoying squeak as you go along can be a time consuming and frustrating experience. This is due to most of the rear brake drums being oval shaped, creating tight spots when trying to set up the rear brake correctly.

Usual trial and error that is part and parcel of c5 ownership 

Do not be tempted to oil the rear brake to stop the squeaking !!