Topic: All LEDs are lit, and the C5 does NOT drive

[Durango2k]

AAARGH.

I have managed to get some light on the LEDs, and now, nothing.
Hey, if I have a choice between POD and DRIVE I chose DRIVE :-)

What happened en detail:

Left side LED: All where flashing, and the yellow (left) LED was solid lit.

RIDE side: Full, every single LED was lit.

NOW, some hours later, on both sides ALL are lit.

Disconnecting the battery did not help. Same as before when reconncting: No relay clicking, no power.

How do I reset it ?

Carsten

[Umpa]

HI

As you know, the left set of lights show the amount of current the motor is drawing, If all of the lights light up and flash that means the motor has over heated and won't run again for over an hour (it should buzz too).  The solid orange lights are just bottom and top indicators.

As the load on the motor increases more lights will light, if the load becomes so great the unit will cut the power to the motor, continuing to press the power button after this will light the last led that was lit before the stall protection was activated. If you have a C5alive wiring kit fitted you can just switch off and on again to clear it.  If you have an orinigal wiring block, you will have to insert your key and remove the block from the battery to clear ther error.

If its over heated you will have to wait.

Now that said - if the pod is faulty it may well do this regardess.  So there may still be faulty components in the pod.

Put your hand on the motor - is it hot ? like very hot ?? - no then its a pod fault - yes ?? let it cool down and try again..

[Durango2k]

Hey,

my C5 is lying on its right side, the CB is open, and the motor should have 22 degs, cause the C5 lives in my room for a week now.

Situation got worse when I found a loose fuse connector. At first it seemed a broken PCB, but then I got that. Was this electronics developed by LUCAS ?

Back to the problem: I get a solid RIGHT side, and a flashing left, with a solid yellow. NO action of the motor, no click. Motor is dead.
When I open the R1 bridge to the LM7805, the motor is back alive- and the POD is dead. Rebridging it kills the motor immediately and it flashes.

So I need to know how the POD senses that the motor is hot....

Carsten

[Umpa]

Hi Carsten,

There are 2 sensors on the Motor, one is fitted to the underside of the motor and is held in place with a clip. The other fits at the rear of the motor and fits inside the armature.  The idea to to measure the the inside and outside temp.  Depending on which sensor trips - depends on how long the C5's power is locked out. A double lock out takes at least 1 hour before power is restored.

This sounds like a faulty pod, but so long as the ULA chip is OK you can fix it.

[Durango2k]

Hi,

how could I simply BRIDGE the temperature sensing feature ? I did re-solder the whole POD; checked for faults and found none :-(

My main problem is now a guided "where to look". I have the schematics etc, but I have no idea where to look. I have had a burnt 10 Ohm resistor just next to the multipin connector (red wires), but that was all I could find.

Any idea ?

Carsten

[Karl]

Hi Carsten, not sure if this is any help - you can bypass the pod as per c5martin's site;
http://www.c5martin.co.uk/c5_help.htm


OPERATE C5 WITHOUT POD
 
Connect a 2k2 Ohm resistor with the pod removed from pin3 to pin7 on the pod header plug X1.
Pin1 is followed by a missing pin2 total number of pin locations10.
Count from Pin1 gap is pin2 and so on.


This will bypass the pod but will still keep the motor thermal cut-out in circuit.

And the go button will work as usual
 

 

[Durango2k]

Hi Karl,

what he does not write is that it means to disconnect the plug and let it be disconnected ? This means NO POD and it drives.

I already have reached that state- I can drive but no Pod. What I want is to drive WITH POD :-), cause it's sooooo 80s.

If I could afford the 27 EACH I would send both items to Martin, but money is too tight (taxes, ouch), at least now.

I thought I could find this in a few days so the C5 can live for that time in my room, but the wife says "fix it now or carry it down to the garage"...

So for the moment I have not solution.... so I need some help where to look. I think what I will try is to measure EVERY darn component inside the POD. But I don't have a list of all the resistors, meaning a lot of colour code de-coding.


Carsten

[Umpa]

Yes it's looking like that's what you will have to do. When you find the answer please let us know what was wrong with it.

[Retro Andy]

This sounds like a C5 Martin technical repair to me, mine has been perfect since Martin repaired it a year and a half ago.

Retro Andy.

[Umpa]

I think money is an issue here Andy.

Say hows Matt and the cat ?

[Durango2k]

Made some (little) progress.

Did check the POD. The switch does power Pin 21 on the ULA chip, with 4 Volts (not 5), and then I checked the thermistor low and high resistor values, Pin 5 and 6 on the ULA chip. The book says 900 vs. 1100, and I say that NONE of the two seem to be met. I must get a digital multimeter first, have problems in finding out what the analogue wants to tell me. But if I interpret it correctly I have 10 Ohms for high and 50 for low. And thats FAR out, makes me think of a simply blown ! thermistor.
Which of the two shall I check first ? The orange clamped one should have WHICH value (it's not documented), the other (inside motor) has WHICH value ? Then I found that if I bend pin 1 at the pod away it does NOT work. If I take the 5 Volts away by disabling the LM342 / 7805 and leave the Pod connected I still get no LED BUT IT THEN WORKS.

Something makes me think it's in the CB, not in the POD. Cause taking the 5 Volts completely away means it drives, only taking it away from the POD does NOT do the job.

Suggestions ?

Carsten

[Retro Andy]

I think money is an issue here Andy.

Say hows Matt and the cat ?

Does'nt Martin repair both together at a better price ?

Matt said last week the cats have settled in well and he is going to get me to post some pictures soon for you Ian.

Retro Andy. 

[Durango2k]

Hah, it's solved !

A friend of mine knows someone who works at Volkswagen, Electronics development. I gave him the C5.

He fixed it, and all he asked for was some chocolate for his daughter !

He said that the temp alarm was my problem, and this was caused by a dry capacitor. I have yet to fetch the C5 back, but he says he drove it through the village, and it worked. The only issue is that the LEDS are not that precise, but I can maybe recalibrate it later. I have a 72Ah bat fitted now....

Hoooo---ray :-) !

Carsten

[Karl]

That is excellent news 

Glad to hear you are back on the road - we might have to tempt your friend over here to repair a few more 

[Retro Andy]

Its a good feeling getting the liittle snags ironed out and everything works as it should again.

Retro Andy.