Topic: Yet another C5 rebuild.

[aandu]

I am newbie to C5s... I finally managed to get hold of a C5!!

The one I bought is a non-runner (parked for moe than 10 years). But it came with the original charger, original battery(long dead), and all fittings except for the keys...

Restoration plan:

• Make C5 reliable and road worthy
• 4 speed hub gears for the pedals.
• 3 speed hub gears for the motor (if my skills allow  )
• Custom panels
• Golf Cart battery - most probably a Trojan 100+Ah

I intend to use this thread for getting your invaluable advice/tips and as an online blog.

Planning to work a couple of hours everday in the evening and around 4-5 hours in the weekend.

[aandu]

Sunday
Brought it home and and stripped the body off. Gave the chassis a good scrub. There is quite a bit of rust in some areas. 

Removed the following:
Pedals and crank.
Removed rear wheels.
Handle bars.
Handle bar headset.

Monday
Bought a crank puller, chain puller, cone spanner, high velocity grease (yeah my C5 is going to do the standard top speed of 15 miles.... that is still faster than shank's mare ) and a cheap set of spanners/screw drivers from halfords.

[jomac]

any chance of some pics? everyone seems to use photobucket

[aandu]

Here are some low res shots taken with my phone... Was thinking too much into the restoration and forgot to click more pictures...  should start clicking more...!

This just before I started stripped it all down.


Note the garbage in footwell...Had thoughts about whether I would be able to  restore it... 


Just after the strip down. Some bits of the chain were as stiff as a metal rod.


Dried slush... think it was driven on ploughed fields... How else can we get so much mud/slush on the frame?

[aandu]

Tuesday
Sanded the chassis. Almost 75% done.
Chain too stiff with rust. Soaked it in petrol and now it is pretty flexible. Plan to remove all the rust and then grease it just a wee bit.


Wednesday
The handlebar headset bearings need to be replaced. So also the bearings in the bottom bracket.

Question is should I replace all the bearings when I am servicing it. Or just leave the ones that are alright ?

Thursday
No work done.

Was out karting. 

Did some real fast laps. Qualified 14th for the race... finished last but one. Should probably stick to C5s.... that way can excuse myself saying i am driving within the legal limit. 

[aandu]

Friday & Saturday

Pretty exciting day today...

Got 3 internal hubs for 28 quid. Two 3 Speed (model: AW, freewheel hubs) and a 4 Speed (model: FG?) dyno-hub.

Got the Dynohub (completely serviced and rebuilt into a wheel)! So do not want to undo all the hardwork that went into rebuilding the wheel....So planning to save it for now...

Completed sanding the chassis. Used left-over primer from another project...
Repacked the balls in the headset bearing and rear wheel bearing.

The one with the chain mechanism (not sure what the technical term is..) is working. I got it with the gear cable and shifter. The cable is a bit worn but hopefully will do for testing purposes.

Could someone please let me know where I can get hold of a 3/4 speed shifter and gear cable?

[c5martin]

http://www.theoldbicycleshowroom.co.uk/

[aandu]

Martin, Thanks a lot for the info! You reduced my work there...!

IGNITION LETTERS
I saw some letters on the ignition... No idea what they mean.
But I would like to imagine they stand for:
R-Reverse,
D- Drive,
P-Parking and
I -Ignition...
But that is my own imagination...

Can someone pls let me know what they actually stand for...


 

[jomac]

any cycle shop will help, or halfords but pricey, Shimano do a very nice twist grip that fits and is easier to operate then the lever type as you cannot get the lever mounted close to the handlbar grip.

[Karl]

Martin, Thanks a lot for the info! You reduced my work there...!

IGNITION LETTERS
I saw some letters on the ignition... No idea what they mean.
But I would like to imagine they stand for:
R-Reverse,
D- Drive,
P-Parking and
I -Ignition...
But that is my own imagination...

Can someone pls let me know what they actually stand for...


 

This may help;

[Karl]

Personally, I find the keyswitch and grey battery top set-up a complete pain.

I think wanting to keep a C5 as original as possible is a path we must all tread, but eventually if you want to run a c5 regularly and  reliably then the best way is to opt for a c5alive wiring kit -->http://c5alive.co.uk/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=7_21&products_id=195&osCsid=dcfd4bf15594c7c551ac4ae68f990959

[aandu]

Thanks for the info Karl. Will have to order one from your store once I sort out all the mechanical issues.

[aandu]

18 & 19 August 2008.

Completed a coat of primer on the chassis and the frame that holds the boot and tail lamps.

Serviced a Sturmey archer hub. Not a complete service. Just as much as my confidence allowed. Just removed the sprocket, dust cover etc and once I came to the exposed ball bearings, I just cleaned them as best as I could and greased them a bit and repacked the entire thing.

Just took a look at the motor. Will have to get the Multimeter and stuff before I can proceed with checking it...

[aandu]

Sep 05, 2008.
Been a bit busy lately!

Wired battery to Ignition. The POD lights up. So does tail light and head light (operated by switch on the left side below side).

Set ignition to D (Drive?) but motor doesn't turn on. There is a small switch right next to left hand grip on handle bar. Tried that, still no results...How do I switch it on?

Here is a shot of POD. Does each LED have its own meaning or something?

[fezza_rs]

D1 diode or relay foobarred in control box. agro had d1 blown when i got it simple job to do just remove it from the control box and take it to maplins and say one of these please! solder it in (make sure you get it the right way round!) and hey presto working c5!