Hi Folks,
I have just picked up a C5 that needs restoring altough I have been told that is was working fine before benig laid up.
I've noticed that the chain tensioner is kind of hanging off and dangling on the end of a weak looking spring. How is the tensioner fixed to the body?
Another thing that has puzzled me is that it has a key block on both sides, both sides with the fat brown and thin brown cable and the fat blue cable. Why would it have two key blocks.... curious.
I'll take some pictures and post them (if I can remember how to....)
Cheers, Giles
Quote from: giles on 29, August, 2010 - 19:28:52
.....I've noticed that the chain tensioner is kind of hanging off and dangling on the end of a weak looking spring. How is the tensioner fixed to the body?
This link should help with the chain tensioner query ;);
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=310.0
The two keyswitches suggest it may be a twin battery version (for longer range).
Photos of resto project "ITS 01" 1985 C5
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3030.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3028.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3031.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3032.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3033.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3034-1.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3035.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3036.jpg)
(http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/carchap/C5%20ITS01%20Resto/DSCN3037.jpg)
I am curious about the twin key blocks, as BooBoo suggest, is it a long range 'extrs' or a home bodge?!
Indicators, one left hand mirror (anyone got a right hand one?!), one red and one blue side panels and a sinclair key too.... let's hope it goes! Tyres and tubes to be replaced quick smart.
I have also noticed that although the rear (drum) brake is free and works well the front brake is solid and the front wheel wont turn. Easy fix I guess, but do you think the cable is seized in the sheath or the brake blocks mechanicals seized? It really shows that I never messed around with my racer as a teenager!
Looking forward to seeing you all at Brooklands.
Cheers, Giles
Look's like you have the making of a really nice C5 there Giles - as Boo Boo rightly said it is a twin battery model (probably factory fit as all the straps are riveted etc) with indicators and mud flaps - very nice indeed a top spec vehicle.If you post some photo's of the front brakes we can have a guess as to what is going on - shouldn't be a problem.
Your are missing the body fixing for the tensioner but Boo Boo has some replacement parts:
http://c5alive.co.uk/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=19&products_id=200&osCsid=4880e8be98492364864cc6aaf361f249-
Good luck with the resto -Just a guess but ITS 001 was probably the previous owners initials. Nice Imp by the way !!! :)
Looks nice and complete, should scrub up into a good 'un 8)
The front brake is possibly rusted solid, might be a case of just dismantle it and clean it up to make it work again.
I'd always replace brake cables as a matter of course, they really are vital and so often overlooked !
"ITS 01" update...
Now know as "IT 01" as the S was scruffy and I think, "Information Technology 01" is kind of more appropriate for Sir Clive Sinclairs baby ;D
OK, the front brakes are not inoperative as I thought, it was the over inflated inner tube pushing out the tyre and getting stuck in the brakes.
I have fitted the wheels with new inner tubes although the tyres look pretty knackered they will be OK while I get it up and running.
The only thing stopping it working now is a pair of leisure battery connectors and the chain tensioner. For the latter I need some guidance.....
I read in the shop that you can buy a "Chain Tensioner Y-Clip Replacement" but I can also buy a "Chain Tensioner Clip Kit", the photos of the bits look different although they sound like they are doing the same job. If anyone has the time it would be good if you could cast your eyes over the photos above of my tensioner and let me know which bit I need. I will also be buying an anti chain bounce of device.
After that I am planning to fit new side stripes and maybe a funky LED bulb. Can anyone tell me (objectively) if they give a good light. I have found that my LED wind up torches are some what lame. I wondered if the LED bulb is more bling than functionality, which would be fine but if that's the case I will stick with the standard bulb. On the other hand if they are brighter and can be seen more clearly and illuminate the path/road better then I'll have one.
Cheers, Giles
There are two plastic bits that connect the tensioner to the chassis.
The "y" clip replaces only one of the plastic bits;
http://c5alive.co.uk/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=19&products_id=200&osCsid=71e3388038b2a3f02a6fcd727272a56a
The clip kit replaces both the plastic parts;
http://c5alive.co.uk/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=19&products_id=201&osCsid=71e3388038b2a3f02a6fcd727272a56a
LED bulbs are arguably better in that they consume less power and give off less heat, but they are not necessailry any brighter and suffer the disadvantage of an inferior spread of light. In all honesty, the c5 bulbs are so small these differences are minimal and if your old bulbs are working there's no harm in sticking with them.
Please keep the pictures coming of your progress, looks a nice one
Retro Andy
Hi Folks,
Real progress(!) this morning, I have fitted the battery terminal connectors I held my breath as I connected it up and phew, lights came on as expected. Not only that but the indicators work and the motor propelled me down the cul-de-sac, fab it's a runner!
Then an issue startled me....... when applying the brake the hand brake wheel instantly locked up and juddered, no matter how gently I applied the rear brake it just locks up, quite odd.
Can anyone help with this?
Cheers, Giles
It might do that because its not been used for a long time, my rear brake always snatches the first fews times I use it when "Charlie" hasn't been used for a while, I need to change the shoes really, I have a new set, but I am getting the most wear out of the old shoes first.
Retro Andy.
Very happy today as I found a little red switch under the right hand handle bar grip.... I connected "IT 01" up and it's a horn! A piercing shrill techno (so Sinclair!) horn! Fantastic!
So my resto project is shaping up well....
It's got indicators, horn, mud flaps, twin battery ready, number plate(!), one red one blue ::) side panels, (near side only ::)) mirror - does anyone have an off side mirror? On top of that after connecting it up it worked straight away save for the locking rear wheel under braking and chain tensioner needing the Y clip. It wont be long before I will need to clean it and add the stripes ;D
Thanks for your comment about the rear brake. It really is quite alarming when it locks up, is there anything I can do to stop it happening - for example wet and dry the shoe or such like?
Giving the rear brake shoe and drum surface's a good clean up with some emery tape will help.
Retro Andy.
If the locking up cannot be adjusted out, as Andy says - it might be time for some new rear shoes.
The rear brake is always a bit of swine to get right :-X
How do you adjust the rear brake shoe? I suspect it is coming on too aggresively.
Giles
Quote from: giles on 06, September, 2010 - 07:13:59
How do you adjust the rear brake shoe? I suspect it is coming on too aggresively.
Giles
Adam Harper gave us a talk on setting up the rear brake at the first Brooklands event.
To summarise, once you have the cable adjustment correct you then note where the shoes are rubbing against the drum - gives the squeaking noise a few us will recognise from the meetings - then alter the profile of the shoe with some sand paper or a dremmel type tool.Then re-adjust the cable if necessary.
Be careful when doing this because if you get it wrong you have to replace the shoes and start again....as I found out on "Voodoo" :P Having done all this you might find it only offers a slight improvement,rather than a complete cure.
It is worth noting that in the unofficial handbook the problem of the rear brake locking up is mentioned and no solution is offered. Might just be a "characteristic" of the mechanism.
Suggest spinning rear wheel and applying brake afew times before adjusting;this may centre the shoes a bit.To adjust the brake, firstly loosen the outer cable adjustment lock nut, wind the adjuster into the threaded bracket so that the adjuster goes right into the bracket as far as it will go,then put a mole grip on the cable hard up by the actuating lever so that the cable cannot slip looser when the cable clamp is loosened, pull the cable tighter with the mole grip, tighten the clamp , spin the wheel listening for rubbing sounds, adjust the cable until you need a only a small brake handle movement to lock the spinning wheel, and yet no rubbing noise is heard with the wheel spinning and if left to spin it doesn't suddenly stop from only spinning slowly(ie it slows down to a stop progessively).
I'm struggling with the adjustment of the brake. Will anyone at Brooklands give me some coaching on it? It must be easier to explain around the item. Unfortunatly I will only be able to bring on C5 with me so I wont be able to bring 'IT 01' with the dodgy rear brake.
It's so weird, if you apply the brake very gently you get nothing then suddenly and (seemedly) without any more pulling on the brake leaver it just locks up..... undriveable, so must fix!
Cheers, Giles
Hi there Giles have you tried swapping round the wheels from one c5 to the other (brake wheels of cause ) bye Chas
no, not tried a wheel swap. I could give it a go.
but I did try and fail to adust the brake pull. although i am not sure it's about adjustment as when they bite they bite instantly and very agresively. Could it be that the brake shoes are the wrong way wround maybe the tapered edge should be the leading edge... not sure... very odd.
is there anyone in the club who has had a go at this problem and lives near Stratford Upon Avon?
Cheers, Giles
I'm sure someone would be more than happy to help with this question on Sunday :)
Retro Andy.
Replacement 2nd hand set of shoes has done the trick. Thanks guys.
Now I need to adjust the handbrake correctly, it wont hold it on the slightest of inclines.
I have read the instructions in this thread but don't get it as yet.....
Is there any adjustment at the brake lever pull end?
If I pull the metal bar at the wheel end to a near vertical (pointing down) position then the brake is already on and the wheel doesn't spin.
If I get the wheel to spin freely without binding then the brake lever pulls down to the handle bars and I can't lock the wheel (ironic - understanding where this issue started ::))
Any advice?
Cheers, Giles
Are you sure that you have the correct cables going to each brake? I speak as one who has connected the handbraked lever to the front brake! It seems to work.