We have only owned this for a few hours but in the hast to try it he got the wires around the wrong way. There was a burning smell from the POD. Ive had a look inside and R10 is very black, and according to the circuit diagram it is a 10ohm resistor. Does any one know what wattage it was and if it was wire wound or film? Also if its likely to have done any other damage as the fuses in the main control box are fine.
Also BEFORE the above disaster happened we were trying to sort out the rear lights as when we looked at the C5 it worked however after the journey home it didn't. The bulb is fine and there is no volts getting to either front or rear lights.
Hope fully the only damageto the POD is the resistor, most of the damage is going to be in the Control box.
Check the 5 volt regulator, and the resitor below it ..
Also look at the diodes D1 etc
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1320.0
Parts and replacements are shjown in the tech section of the forum, also you will find some info on similar probelms.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AgB4pmYqCNj_dHB2THBxTEhvYzFBQVBhd0ZQRkhFTGc&hl=en&authkey=CIm6uaAK#gid=0
To prevent this happening, its a good idea to fit one of the replacement power leads from the c5alive shop.
Hope this helps, let us know how you get on .... Lots of helpful people on here will soon get you back up and running.
Re the lights check the connections in the contyrol box for the lights, sometimes the pins in the connector get a bit tarnished, also the track on the rear of this connector can some times crack around the solder joints.
This is probably going to sound strange but im having problem locating a 10ohm resistor. Do know if this is a 10ohm for sure and what wattage it would be please? I will check the other bits once that is replaced and cross my fingers.
This is what you are looking for on the control board re the lights if the solder joints have cracked.
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=1495.msg11716#msg11716
r10 in the pod is 220k
r21 tends not to like it when voltage is reversed, that is 10r, is this the one you are looking at ??
maplins part no M10R
sorry everyone it was supposed to be R21 which is a 10ohm. Maplins have no stock of any of these resistors... typical Ive tries even for getting two in parallel. I will try some other sources later today.
Ive replaced the 10R in the POD and also the 2 R 2 in the control box is blown so i would assume the 5v regulator is also blown. Is there a maplin equivelent or is it only the farnell one as over £5.00 is a little steep for postage... if not i will just have to swallow it....lol
hi
i work for rs components, have you tried rswww.com
they do charge 4.95 for delivery but if you let me know what your after i can get it for you and always post on to you myself
A 7805 from Maplins will do the trick .... But also see below.
I normally get most my bits on E bay, you end up wih loads of spares, but a lot cheaper. ;)
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=m570&_nkw=10r+resistor
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p4012.m570.l1313&_nkw=7805+REGULATOR&_sacat=See-All-Categories
Hi every one thanks for you help so far. Ive replaced D1 and R1 in the main control box, and R21 in the pod. Every thing burst into life for a brief moment apart from all lights on both sides are on the pod. We then managed to blow another D1 for no apparent reason. After this no motor function at all and all the pod lights are still on. Ive checked the main control box 5v regulator and this has 0v in the middle 12v on one side and 5v on th out side. R1 is still fine and in tact and so are the two fuses.... Any ideas ???? getting desperate now....lol
UPDATE! im getting 12v on x13 and x12 when pressing the handle bar switchthere is 12v between the red and black terminals on the relay but no click from the relay or sign of life. Using the negative on the battery for the black probe ive got +12v on both the red and the black terminals on the motor at all times.
I would check D4 then replace lm358, i would fit a socket to this and then its easier to replace in the future, and maybe the ztx 449, the latter might be hard to find . Have a look at the current parts listing i think there was an alernative listed which had been tried and tested. I have a spare one here if you need one.
John
Just looked at the parts list and there are alternatives listed. This is going to be a long process keep waiting for these parts...lol. Do you know if the c5 works with out the pod connected, just so i know that the pod fault is a seperate one and not part of the same thing?
Thnaks Again... Brian
Some one else may be able to answer that one, i know it is possible to link out two pins on the connector at the POD end, but have never done it. You could do with a known working POD to swap it with really.
I wouldn't think its damaged the pod other than the Resistor, i think the problem is going to be in the Control box.
The lights on the pod problem i would say is linked with the Control box fault (assuming it was all working to start with) ?
Where are you loacted ??
John
Medway in Kent... and ordered a ztx 450 which is listed as works and the other part. The Pod was in working order until the accident.
No Problem, i am in Peterborough, Cambs, shame you are not closer. Anyway see how it goes when those bits have been changed and fingers crossed it will be sorted.
Everything in the control box is replaceable and so is the POD ---- Except the ULA, but i wouldn't think its been damaged by this. ::)
Let us know how you get on with it. :)
I will do, and thanks for you help, I used to repair electronics to component level, but i think ive forgotton more than i thought i knew....lol
After a long go at measuring voltages last night etc etc, i put it to bed and left it. Ive gone back to it today and conected the battery and although All the POD lights ore on the motor is working off the switch again. I have not relaced anything else as im waiting for the bits you said to try. It seems that this might be thermal based, any new idea's? this is weired. I will dissconect the battery and very roughly put it back together, try the switch if it works still then i will get my son to ride it and see if it lasts longer than yesterday. (5-6mins). I think the POD lights may be a different fault. I know know that the C5 will not run with out the POD conected.
With the POD lights, try moving the connector about on the back of the POD, check all the pins are clean as these get tarnished. You may have to switch off and on again after each thing you try to clear the fault, if hat makes sense.
This conector can give all sorts of spurious faults .
The C5 is alive... lol It worked for about and hour with out trouble. I found a 1/2 broken wire which goes into the top of the motor which i assume to be the thermal sensor which was also not in properly. I repaired the wire and sorted the sensor then went on with my son for an hour.
I have a fibre glass pen that is especially for cleaning contacts and all the poles are shiney as when i got the C5 you had to move the conector to get the lights on in the first place. There were also several dry joints which i have soldered. The POD was in working order until the unfortunate accident and R21 cooked itself.
I think all is working now just need to test is properly and find a list of fault codes for the POD, as even that is working. It turned out to be the 5v regulator inside the POD TR3.
I would like to thank everyone for their help and if I can return the favour one day I will.
Glad its all working ok :), i have sent you an e mail.
John
It is very reassuring to see the c5alive forum is proving to be as useful as I had hoped 8), and it is especially reassuring to see everything coping well even when I'm out of the country :D
... as Plod says, glad it all worked out well mate ;)
thanks, and i will get my electrical engineer cap back on slowly... but its great to get the help and hope to be able to give some in the future.