While trying to work out why my pod isn't working I took apart the control box, looks like Mr Botch has been having a play
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a578/smilerbaker/cb2_zps5fd6b4f2.jpg) (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/smilerbaker/media/cb2_zps5fd6b4f2.jpg.html)
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a578/smilerbaker/cb1_zps92b2ac6d.jpg) (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/smilerbaker/media/cb1_zps92b2ac6d.jpg.html)
(http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/a578/smilerbaker/cb3_zpsff438462.jpg) (http://s1284.photobucket.com/user/smilerbaker/media/cb3_zpsff438462.jpg.html)
Some sort of termistor bypass?
I checked the voltages and there is nothing going to the voltage regulator, no 12v no 5v, both fuses are ok and I checked the voltages in and out of them (all 12v)
so what does this bypass achieve ?? is it just to stop overheating cutout or litterally just to connect the motor power direct to the switch via the relay??
the C5 has the 2 battery kit fitted if that makes a difference
cheers
Hi Smiler,
sorry to say that from the photos it's impossible to make any conclusion other than it looks like it's been butchered. I would need a circuit diagram to know what the extra inputs/outputs are for.
I have no idea of what you are capable of doing in respect to electronics. I've sent you an email so I can set up contact with you, please inform me as to your capabilities. In return I'll send you a set of diagrams that we can work from.
One thing that is important is to inform me as to the condition of the reverse side of the printed circuit board, i.e. are any of the tracks burned out, cut through, or moded. If yes take a photo of the damage and send it to me.
The reason I suggest using email contact is I don't sit at the computer all day, with an email it will shorten the turnaround time.
Cheers. KarG.
cheers, email hasn't turned up yet, works spam filter may be having fun with it
I'm being sent a known good control box and pod so there is not great hurry, as far as I can tell the board is in pretty good condition apart from these mods, no corrosion etc. I can get by with electronics ;) don't have a scope here so I'm limited to only my volt meter, but changing componants is fine by me.
When the new board turns up I'll swap them over and take a closer look
Hi Smiler,
you should take care with the new units and only connect up with the C5 wiring and don't have the mods connected. The mods may cause trouble or ever blow the units. If the ULA chip gets blown then there BIG problems as they are no longer produced. :o :o
good idea, I'll remove the 2nd battery gear, will be too heavy with 2 anyway
Hi Smiler - this looks to be a fairly common mod seen several times where some one has bypassed most of the circuitry to use the relay direct with the go button - if you have a spare you can copy this to remove the mods - I suspect you will find R2 is open circuit. Regards Marty
Thanks that what I thought, if I disconnect the pod then the motor shouldn't work right?
Ok disconnected the pod and it stopped the motor working to, back of the pub looks fine
Hi Smiler,
if they have bypassed the control circuitry it will make no difference if the POD is connected or not. The switch alone activates the relay.
I've been doing a bit of thinking, OMG it hurts, :o from the way Pat was talking his C5 had to be modded to meet the Swiss regulations. It may be a good idea to contact him and find out just what was required, it may save you a lot of unnecessary work and expense.
I see you posted just before I did. So it appears to be a more extensive mod.
Edit in red.
Pats was heavily modified, bigger motor, more kW and gears, this one will be bob standard, and I live in the middle of nowhere so no worries about hassle from the bib
In that case just fit with a V8, that'll get you up those mountainous Swiss roads no time at all. ;D ;D