i need some help please guys
having never had one before could someone tell me how to check everything works
can i just put a battery straight to live and neutral to check pod and motor
what position should i put the key
and there is a switch screwed to the seat (any ideas)
what should i do with the switched live
connect it to the battery or leave it off
sorry for all the questions but i really want to get it working
I'd recommend you take a look through the unofficial Sinclair C5 manual, freely available in the downloads section of the main c5alive website.
The links are copied here;
shortcut to download section
http://c5alive.co.uk/downloads2.htm
shortcut to pdf version of handbook
http://c5alive.co.uk/pub/downloads/C5-UnofficialServiceManual.pdf
shortcut to word version of handbook
http://c5alive.co.uk/pub/downloads/C5-UnofficialServiceManual.doc
If you want to keep the original keyswitch arrangement, it will tell you what each position is for and what should power up etc. Personally I'd favour going for a more reliable c5alive wiring kit - it also opens up the choice of battery you can use.
The c5 has a switch fitted to the edge of the base of the seat under your left leg, in standard form this is the light switch. On the other side would be the indicator switch,if indicators are fitted.
C5martin would be my choice for testing the pod and control box as he can bench test them and tell you what,if anything, is amiss.
http://c5alive.co.uk/ecommerce/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=36&osCsid=3c8a9c61b69be3782ad5c03540ed2da7
Give him a call/email him , I'm sure he still does the no fix/no fee option (just charges for postage).
Hope this helps.
Hi,
Ok you can connect the wires direct to a car battery, brown is + and blue is -. Dont cross wire it else you will damage the control box.
Most people start off by cutting the ignition block off, then they find out the wires arn't long enough and so buy the wiring kit on sold on this sites shop.
Yes there is a switch screwed to the base of the seat - but its only used for the lights. The ignition block turns the c5 on and off by making and breaking the connection.
If you do cut the ignition block off - the only way to will turn the power off will be to remove the wires from the battery.
The C5 will run (go forward) by pressing a micro switch on the left handlebar.
I hope this helps.
Follow Karls advice - whilst both are correct - his is the safest option !
to check all works before buying the wiring kit do i connect both lives (one thick one thin) or just the thick one
cheers
Oh yes I forgot about that - yes connect both brown wires to the + of the battery. the thin brown wire is for the battery protection circuit and will work without for your test - but you may as well connect it.
If your going to chop off the block and your wires are long enough you can use car battery connectors. but If I were you I would rig up some other wire and save your block as if you have a key you can sell it (or save it for originality) and buy a wiring kit - they are very good, have cross wire protection, light control and on/off.
great i will give it a try in the next couple of days and let you know what happens
Good luck mate let us know how it goes.
tried it but no go
found fuse blown on main p/c/b
and resistor burnt out on display p/c/b
replaced both but still nothing
no lights or display
connected motor and that runs so looks like at least one of the boards is naf
i will have them both off and check them again
there is a way you can by pass the pod and or contolbox.
i think the info is on c5matins website.
ok cheers i will have a look for it
Quote from: Umpa on 01, August, 2009 - 21:53:41
there is a way you can by pass the pod and or contolbox.
i think the info is on c5matins website.
...it certainly is, click on the "c5 help" section of his site;
http://www.c5martin.co.uk/c5_help.htm
Connect a 2k2 Ohm resistor with the pod removed from pin3 to pin7 on the pod header plug X1.
Pin1 is followed by a missing pin2 total number of pin locations10.
Count from Pin1 gap is pin2 and so on.
This will bypass the pod but will still keep the motor thermal cut-out in circuit.
And the go button will work as usual.
i have done that and it is up and running
have a problem now that it wont go up a slope
not hill but slope :(
not steep just a slight gradient and it slows down to snails pace so dare not take it out onto an actual slope
anyone had this problem before
The problem is that what's one mans hill is anothers slope, however there could be several reasons for this.
Have you taken the motor apart and cleaned the sliprings and greased the gearbox ? You should be able to turn the motor round with your hand.
If it's hard to turn a bearing may have seized or the stater magnets may have come away from the housing. It could also be the brushes, the problem with not having a pod is that you can't tell how much strain there is on the motor.
Touch the motor after a short test say 2 mins and see how hot it is, if it's very hot- you will need to strip it.
If you have checked the motor and
Quote from: petalpop on 03, August, 2009 - 17:47:29
i have done that and it is up and running
have a problem now that it wont go up a slope
not hill but slope :(
not steep just a slight gradient and it slows down to snails pace so dare not take it out onto an actual slope
anyone had this problem before
If the motor and gearbox assembly turn freely by hand and the bearings etc are not seized, then the problem lies elsewhere.
Not being funny, but is the battery fully charged and kicking out enough electrikery ?
Assuming your battery is fully charged and ok , another possibility is the motor brushes.
i changed a bearing and the brushes
everything seems to turn OK
the shaft is broken but the bearings in the gearing end are in there and turning
could that be the problem????
as i meantioned before i am new at c5s so need guidance
If your armature looks like the damaged one in the photos (see link), I think that could well be the problem . Umpa has the same snag and his C5 was losing "drive".
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=368.0
so any spare armatures out there
that link could be showing my one so that is probably it
The tension on the drive belt is supported by the bearings and shaft. When it brakes It bends the gearbox down, causing friction, this in turn will melt the nylon box.
I need a new one too, your also going to have to remove the bearings out of the gear. This is major bad news !
I'm guessing that over tight drive belts cause this. So it may well be my fault it's broke.
Quote from: petalpop on 04, August, 2009 - 15:16:16
so any spare armatures out there
that link could be showing my one so that is probably it
Karl has got a spare available, send him an email and you can sort out costs etc.....
who is karl?????????
i have looked at members but he isnt on there
Quote from: petalpop on 05, August, 2009 - 14:12:54
who is karl?????????
i have looked at members but he isnt on there
....I've often wondered that myself ;D
p.s. - It's me mate ;)
Quote from: petalpop on 05, August, 2009 - 14:12:54
who is karl?????????
i have looked at members but he isnt on there
You've heard of the saying Dan the man, well its not true, Karl's the man (The C5 man) hes a top bloke doing a top job !
Retro Andy
great stuff
recieved today and fitted
still same problem with lack of power
vvv.disapointed with c5 at moment
must be a way of getting a bit more oomph from it surely
Quote from: petalpop on 07, August, 2009 - 23:55:17
great stuff
recieved today and fitted
still same problem with lack of power
vvv.disapointed with c5 at moment
must be a way of getting a bit more oomph from it surely
Have you tried any other C5's to compare the performance ? If not, see if you can get down to the Brooklands meet and try out a few of mine. It would help identify if there is a problem that needs sorting or not.
Scott had a similar problem , we ended up changing the motor coz we couldn't work out why is was slower when everything seemed fine . Shame the control box then went up in smoke (but thats another story..).
The new armature has fixed mine, Mark and I went for a quick spin today and all is fine, I went to work on it - and at first I thought it lacked the performance, but when I swapped the battery for the Sinclair one - it was fine (I think my cheepo 38 is on its way out). I am so glad I saved the Gearbox - Aralditing the gearbox pin in place worked a treat. Gave it & the pins and the bearings a good greasing (this time putting only enough tension on the belt required to stop beltslip. I slackened off the the other c5's belt too (once bitten).
I hate to speak ill of the C5 - but its not the most powerful thing in the world, and might very well be as it should be. The only real way is to try another or better still take it and another out for a ride at the same time.