Hi all. Went for a windy ride on my C5 tnight. All was well, until I was about 5 minutes into the ride. When pedalling, I noticed a noise on the crank. It sounded as if it was grinding. However, it may not have been the crank.
I ignored it, and it carried on.
I pulled over to visit someone, and then rode off shortly after. When I began to pedal, the chain came right off. It is was still intact, so I had a go at putting it back on. To my surprise, I managed it!
About a half-mile later, I pedalled again, and the chain came off again. This time however, I couldn't get it back on so that it would stay on.
It seems incredibly 'slack', and the tensioner barely touches it. Has it stretched? If so, it's happened very quickly. Don't know what to do. Have I ruined it?
I think you should start with the chain tensioner, it might need refitting
Thanks mate, I'll have a go when it's light... Are there any instructions already prepared for this that I could take a look at per chance?
Oh, and anther thing... When I lean to the right when riding, my right hand side wheel arch rubs on the wheel. That's not good I know, but it's only slight. So slight, but still noticeable.
Surely I haven't bent the chassis as well?? Oh heck!
Maybe it's time to give it up before it's so damaged I can't even sell it!
You don't need instructions for the chain tensioner, just check out some of the piccies on this site and c5martins site (before its deleted..);
http://www.c5martin.co.uk/c5_help.htm
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=310.0
The faults and solutions section is always worth a look ;)
Wheels rubbing on the wheel arches does not sound good at all. Is this the side you landed on after that bump ? Take a good look at the chassis and check for any creasing , and also look at how the wheel sits within the wheel arch - photo's are in the buyers guide and "Dave requires some treatment" thread;
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=429.0
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=578.0
The chain constantly slipping, despite being new, was one of the symptoms of "Dave's" bent chassis.
Hopefully, your chassis is fine and all you need to do is refit the chain tensioner...
Cheers mate, I'll have a go at that. Might need to wait a few days before the weather's better though. From looking at the pictures, it really does look like my tensioner requires re-fitting or adjusting.
Is the tensioner something which actually came fitted as an original part, or is it a C5 Alive add-on, to help against chain issues?
Thanks.
Mike
The tensioner is a standard Sinclair part...although I have seen some dodgy copies (anyone remember the skateboard wheel ? ).
C5martin made an excellent copy though.
Ok, I managed to find 10 minutes this evening to re-fit the chain. I couldn't manage by just turning the C5 on its side, so looked in the foot wells, and noticed that the crank covers come off quite easily.
After re-fitting the chain, the tensioner doesn't seem to quite 'reach' the chain. The chain is still slack, and won't run with the tensioner teeth unless I move the tensioner against the will of the spring. In doing so, two of the plastic hinges come off, so I put them back on. Should I arrange to have a link or two taken out of the chain, or should I investigate whethe the chassis is bent?
Thanks,
Mike
Quote from: mike7201 on 14, December, 2009 - 22:51:10
......After re-fitting the chain, the tensioner doesn't seem to quite 'reach' the chain. The chain is still slack, and won't run with the tensioner teeth unless I move the tensioner against the will of the spring. In doing so, two of the plastic hinges come off, so I put them back on. Should I arrange to have a link or two taken out of the chain, or should I investigate whethe the chassis is bent?
Mike
Sounds like you need to refit the tensioner correctly, check out the piccies on c5martins site;
http://www.c5martin.co.uk/c5_help.htm
I wouldn't be too quick in starting to remove links from the chain as you run the risk of bending the rear axle (which is hollow).
You can tell if a chain is worn out and needs replacing when it starts to slip.
Many thanks. In case it has worn out, do you sell replacement chains?
Hoping to get it running again within this week, so that I can put on my santa suit on and ride down through my village and be a 'Santa on a C5'!!
Thanks
c5alive doesnt sell chains, but Adam Harper still sells original spec.
Alternatively a couple of bicycle chains from Halfords will also do the job :)
Thanks again. Hopefully I won't need to replace it just yet, but if I do, should I ask for a specific size chain?
Not if you buy from Adam ;D
...if you're going to Halfords or Evans etc then you will need to buy two and join them so as to make one long enough for a C5
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=271.0
Smashing, thanks again. Hopefully I won't need to replace it yet, but if I do, I'll call Adam for a price.
Well, I took a look today in daylight hours. My worst fears have been realised.
I'll try and take some pics, but meanwhile this is how the rear right wheel looks... (Just like the C5alive one did)
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i257/1stbooboo/damagedc5002.jpg)
Sorry to use someone else's image, but this is pretty much where I am right now...
Should I arrange a C5 funeral? Don't sugar the pill though. Is it ruined?
Right... Here goes...
What do you make of these images? Please, be gentle, yet truthful!!
This is the left rear wheel.
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300025.jpg)
Now the back right wheel...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300026.jpg)
And another...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300027.jpg)
And another...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300028.jpg)
Here's how the chain looks from the back...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300029.jpg)
A shot of behind the wheel in question...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300030.jpg)
Chassis...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300031.jpg)
Chassis 2...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300034-1.jpg)
Chassis 3...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300035-1.jpg)
Underneath...
(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz58/mike7201/S2300036-1.jpg)
If it is repairable, would anyone be willing to visit, in exchange for a slap up meal, accommodation too if required at the local B&B, all paid for of course. Or, if anyone's willing to buy it from me I may also be willing to sell it.
Hi there it,s obvious that the chassis has had some hammer .I think the only way would be to strip it down and get the chassis welded , or get another one ..and put all the parts back after cleaning sanding spraying ..
Sadly; that's way beyond my ability. :'(
You're talking to someone who can't even get the wing mirrors back on! I'm truly pathetic when it comes to fixes - trust me!
Looks like I went over one pot-hole too many, and that this may be the end of the road for this C5 at the moment.
Anyone want to make an offer for my C5?
I would be interested. How would I get it to germany ?
A possible solution might be to shorten the chain ?
Carsten
i would not be so hasty dissing your ability to fix it,
i'm very new to the C5 scene, but one of it's ig attractions for me is you don't need garage full of expensive tools and 5 ton ramp to work on one.
cleaning of the rust on the frame and ancillaries can be done with a power drill and rotary wire brush (wear goggles please), as to the frame damage i don't think it would cost that much to get a local garage to weld and reinforce it, especially if you offer to advertise there name in the yellow stripe for 6 months, the C5 turns heads there's no argument to that ;D.
as for the chain you should be able to buy it by the meter from a decent bike store or on line, a worn chain will have a lot of side ways movement, but also look at the cogs for 'hooking' i.e. the cog teethe are concave on one side - but that would only happen after fairly high mileage use given its mainly powered when rode and the chain is idle.
given the general unloved condition the chain coming off might be sorted out by applying tlc in the shape of WD40 to the chain, tensioner and moving parts, with some machine {3 in one) oil on the chain itself.
if very rusty/mucky remove and soak in paraffin overnight, refit and oil.
the grubby body could be sanded and painted, see threads already running about this but especially the cobolt blue C5 by filcool - "WOW and OMG" just don't do it justice as guide to what can be done with some application and elbow grease - after all, what have you got to loose by trying?
good luck
regs
Alan
Quote from: Durango2k on 16, December, 2009 - 20:22:09
A possible solution might be to shorten the chain ?
Carsten
Thanks Carsten, but I have been reliably informed that shortening the chain may not be the best solution. What's more, it could cripple the rear axle.
Quote from: techytype on 16, December, 2009 - 20:26:33
i would not be so hasty dissing your ability to fix it,
As to the frame damage i don't think it would cost that much to get a local garage to weld and reinforce it, especially if you offer to advertise there name in the yellow stripe for 6 months, the C5 turns heads there's no argument to that ;D.
Alan
Thanks for that, but I think the chain is fine. It's well greased, and it's had a lot of WD40 on it today, but it's not that which it the problem. It's the chassis.
As for being un-loved, I can assure you I've looked after it to the best of my ability, both pysically and financially. I always make sure I take care when I'm riding it, but there's always going to be an unexpected incident. However, whenever I touch anything mechanical which has been greased, then touch the C5 shell, it tends to end up on the shell, and therefore becomes something else which needs sorting! The chassis rust isn't really an immediate worry for me, but perhaps I could ask a garage whether they'd be willing to take a look. Just to see if they could straighten it out for me. Problem is, the last time I left my C5 in the hands of other people, they charged bme about £70 for the privellage!
So, I'lkl hold fire for a moment, then unless I can find anyone willing to spend time dis-mantling the C5 and fixing the chassis, I may have to sell it.
Hi Mike - sorry to hear your having problems - you are right in assuming the chassis is the cause for your chain problems - it clearly is very bent, cracked. The solution is to find a donor chassis or have your's welded using a Tig. I have recently completed a strip down rebuild following the info on this site and it is not too hard. If you take your time and do it step by step i'm sure you'll be able to do it.....We are here to talk you through it.
Quote from: mike7201 on 16, December, 2009 - 21:01:56
So, I'll hold fire for a moment, then unless I can find anyone willing to spend time dis-mantling the C5 and fixing the chassis, I may have to sell it.
If you're not in a hurry I might be able to sort something out for you in the New Year - looking at February/March time.
Shift work, C5-25 ,re-stocking the club shop and other commitments at home mean I can't fit you in anytime sooner.
Gives you some time to think over whether you want it repaired, which can be done, or call it a day and move on to another c5.
Once Christmas and c5-25 have been and gone , we can look at getting your c5 sorted 8)
Thanks for the re-assuring words mate, but I really don't think I can't manage it. I find things like this a real worry, and if I'm honest, a bit scary too! Not in the fun sense, but the thought of stripping my C5 really terrifies me! How on earth would someone weld it to fix it? What part would they weld. Are we talking lots of welding, or are we saying that they'd need to bend it back into shape, then weld it to hold the shape?
I'm the sort of person who takes something apart, only to find that when it's back together again, I suddenly find an essential part still on the floor! What's more, I haven't the patience to dismantle something so complex. I'm quick to make mistakes, and even quicker to lose my patience over it and end up getting furious with myself for making a situation worse. A little bit like when you peel off a scab, thinking it's for the best, then realising you shouldn't have done it, thus leaving a worse injury than before! However, once I start peeling, I have to carry on to finish the job, otherwise it'll be just left half-done! Same here. I couldn't just start it, I'd have to finish it too!
Perhaps i should ask the local garage, or even the local bike shop if they'd be willing to take a look at it as suggested earlier.
If anyone knows anyone in Dorset who may be wiling to take a look, I'd be happy to chat with them.
Cheers,
Mike
Quote from: BooBoo on 16, December, 2009 - 22:59:33
Quote from: mike7201 on 16, December, 2009 - 21:01:56
So, I'll hold fire for a moment, then unless I can find anyone willing to spend time dis-mantling the C5 and fixing the chassis, I may have to sell it.
If you're not in a hurry I might be able to sort something out for you in the New Year - looking at February/March time.
Shift work, C5-25 ,re-stocking the club shop and other commitments at home mean I can't fit you in anytime sooner.
Gives you some time to think over whether you want it repaired, which can be done, or call it a day and move on to another c5.
Once Christmas and c5-25 have been and gone , we can look at getting your c5 sorted 8)
Wow! Thanks mate. Yes please. I'd be very grateful for any assistance you'd be able to provide. However, as I am sure you'll appreicate, my want to ride the C5 again is very strong, so if I can find support locally before March, I will most probably see if I can acheive it. However, C5's are quite an item, and as such, they need attention from those who know them. So, if I haven't located anyone between now and then who can weld or repair to a suitable standard, can I book younow provisionally?
Sorry Karl, I need to clarify...
Firstly, many thanks for the kind offer of help, and yes please is my response. However, would you be ok for me to try and investigate other sources of repair or fixing in the meantime, to see if I can get it fixed sooner?
I'm thinking that if I can get it fixed before March, I'll be up and running again, and therefore could save you the hassle of fixing. Or, on the other hand, if I can't get anyone to look at it before March, would you still be happy to help? If so, perhaps you'll be able to email me your fees, so I can claculate whether it would be best to keep and fix this C5, or move on to the next like you say.
Thanks again for your continued support.
Mike
I've sent you an email mate with another option to consider...
Bless you. I'll check as soon as I can. Not at home at the moment, so will check asap.
Mike, you could scour ebay for a chassis, set a favorite search for one, i did this and have bought a chassis. my intention is to clean it up ready then transplant as i 'pimp' the shell
Mike is not confident in being able to strip down this C5 and my full respects to him to being able NOT to wade, in and risk getting into deeper waters.
BUT he raises an interesting open question for those who know -:
how long would it take (on average) to strip down ready for a chassis transplant/repair and re-build by a reasonably equipped and competent Sunday Morning mechanic? (based on me if you like ::)).
Regs
Alan
aLAN
Quote from: techytype on 17, December, 2009 - 16:46:20
how long would it take (on average) to strip down ready for a chassis transplant/repair and re-build by a reasonably equipped and competent Sunday Morning mechanic?
...bit like "how long is a piece of string" ;D
I took two afternoons, at a leisurely pace, to change over the chassis on "Dave" .That did not involve any paint/repair/bodge jobs - just a straight swap.
i had imagined about 3 hours to strip down, and 2 - 3 hours to re-assemble, why i grabbed frame to be able to clean and spray it up ready
been a lot of comment in here about separating the C5's handle bars stem, which seems to be a bit pia on most C5's due to rust issues :(
is there definitive way of doing this? or just use brute strength (and a lot of cussing ;D).
regs
alan
I think it's more a luck thing with the handle bars - depending on the rust situation - must say I was lucky using the -one holding the front wheel and the other working the handle bars side to side method.
thanks Marty,
likely it will be after March time before i can attempt it.
i run a small business in alarms and IT, work is just piling in at the moment. i don't want to get it half done then be stuck without it available for the odd 'blast' for a few months 8).
regs
alan
Hi all. As luck would have it, I've managed to locate someone who's kindly offered to weld and repair my chassis so that I can begin using my C5 again.
However... One or two questions which I haven't been able to find the answer to so easily this evening.
1. What kind of metal is the chassis?
2. Is there a step by step (photos and all) set of instructions on how to get to the chassis for welding? I need to show the instructions to someone who's a welder by trade, but has never seen a C5 in his life.
Cheers,
Mike
Hi Mike - I had a friend weld one recently who used a TIG welder as he said this was the best one for the type of metal
Thanks mate, but what metal is it?
Might be wrong but think it is a very thin (poss 1mm) mild steel (or fag paper !!!!!)
Yes indeed it is a pressed steel chassis.
To get to it you will need to do a full strip down. See link :
http://c5alive.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=241.0
Many thanks. As well as waiting for someone to take a look at it, I managed to get it to a local car mechanic this morning and he said he could fix it for £30 all in. He said that he'd need to move the control box though, so before I let him 'at it', is anyone able to assure me that if I follow C5 Martin's wiring instructions, the control box will be simple enough to remove then put back?
The mechanic said he could fix the chassis without a total strip down, but then he doesn't deal with C5's, so we'll see I guess.
It is quite easy to disconnect the control box - you need a 7mm & 8mm nut runner for the power connections the other connections are just a push fit. Should be no problem.
It is quite scary how easily the chassis bends as the metal is very thin but it is difficult to keep the box section intact. For £30 it's certainly worth a try. If it all goes wrong, given the damage yours already has, it's unlikely he could make it any worse.
In the end , even if you still end up having to do a chassis change you're not really any worse off for having tried the cheaper alternative 8)
Thanks guys.
Will keep you posted. Got my 30th birthday coming up in January, so we'll see what that brings! My family and friends know I'm a C5 enthusiast, so perhaps if I don't manage to get my C5 fixed, I may be able to start saving for another one.
Cheers,
Mike
Well, it's in the garage! I pushed it to the garage, and they're treating it like any other road-going vehicle, in that they're giving it its own space in the repair shop, and they'll be working on it at a specified appointment time.
It's funny though. I still love to see the looks on peoples faces when I take it somewhere.
Despite being a fully knowledgeable mechanic, I thought I should point out to the guy that the C5 shouldn't be reversed! Nothing worse than having it fixed, only to find they pushed it backwards and destroyed the electrics.
sounds like you're making some progress, let us know how you get on.
Done!! 8)
Just had a call to say the work is complete, and the C5 is awaiting collection. I am guessing that if it's fixed, the chain should not slip any more, thus allowing me to pedal.
I'm rather excited about this.
I'll update when I can.
Top service there 8)
Good luck with the repairs Mike - keep us updated - hope it's not too costly.
;D Hooray! Back on the road!
Took my C5 for a quick ride in the snowy weather today. It felt so surreal to ride through snow as it fell from the sky.
Speak soon.
Mike
Quote from: mike7201 on 06, January, 2010 - 13:03:29
;D Hooray! Back on the road!
Fantastic news mate, so glad it's turned out okay 8)
Thanks. I've now decided to keep my C5 dry for the monent, and have set myself the task of cleaning it in time for spring - which at the moment seems a long way off, but it'll soon come round. The other day, I found that Mr Muscle's kitchen cleaner works wonders on the oil and grease marks left on the shell after I'd been working on the fence and re-fitting the chain etc.
Good luck to you all on the 10th. I have a good feeling about it! You may even have a surprise or two. Then again,you may not. Either way, I'm sure it will be an event to remember.
Finally, a message to anyone considering selling their C5's. If you have only one C5, keep it. Look after it and love it like it means something to you. You never know, you may be glad you kept it!
All the best,
Mike.
Took my C5 out for a spin this evening. Blimey - I thought I was going to lose my fingers - I forgot to wear gloves!!! :o :o
It's FREEEEEEEZING!
Managed to do half my usual circuit. However, despite having a good fully charged battery, it lasted only half the length of time it would usually. Is that because it's so cold?
Also, I noticed there's something 'rubbing' somewhere. When I'm rolling along, it sounds like there's something rubbing, or scraping. If I lean to the left a little, it eases and the C5 moves a little bit quicker.
Perhaps something's still not quite right. Perhaps this too, explains why the battery died so soon. It could've been that because something's rubbing, the battery was under extra strain to meet the demand of my left thumb, which nearly froze to the handlebar!
I should clarify that at the present time, the arches look great, and there's no rubbing or wheel issues. I could do with a little tire inflation though, but apart from that, perhaps when it warms up I should inspect underneath and see what's occuring.
Any thoughts?
Hi Mike,
Good to hear you and your C5 are out and about! One of the main problems of the C5 at launch was that the battery didn't last half as long as it was advertised. It was launched 25 years ago tomorrow, in the snow but the battery was tested and finalised the summer before, when it lasted much longer.
With regards to the funny noise, and what I remember from my C5, I think it is drive belt related? That is what usually makes the funny noise.
Mark
Thanks Mark. Drive belt appears to be ok. It's not clicking.
When I lean to the left, it sorts itself... Hmmm... :-\
Nope... Definitely not the belt.
i'm no C5 expert, but for what it's worth based on cars and deterining a wheel bearing is on its way out, my guess is the wheel bearing race case is pitted, so as the balls roll over the pits your getting that noise and vibration, alleviated by moving to one side (so the weight) when you lean to one side.
hope it helps
regs
alan
My Father took my C5 out for a ride the other day. My Mother didn't want him to ride it, as she thinks they're dangerous (crazy woman). I think she's got the impression that they can do 0-60 in 10 seconds flat or something like that!!
Anyway, he thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and said it was amazing. Even though the chain came off half way! He's lighter than I am though, so didn't need to pedal, and the motor took him on reasonable load without over-loading it.
We've come to the conclusion, that it may well be that we need to shorten the chain. Ever such a little bit though. We've adjusted the chain tensioner, and I've fitted lord knows how many springs and extra tensioning equipment, to just keep the chain tighter than it is, yet it still bounces and comes off...
The axel appears to be fine, and the chassis is welded tight, so that's fine too. Is it possible that the chain may have actually 'stretched' over time? If so, is it easy to simply shorten it by one or two links? We can't find a join or anything that highlights where it was made to begin with, so don't know where to begin.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Mike
This is what i used, you can get them from most good cycle shops, or get them to do it for you.
There are some tutorial vids on this page on removing links and checking for wear etc.
John
http://bicycletutor.com/chain-tool/
http://bicycletutor.com/quick-release-chain-link/
HI THERE FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED TO FIND IF THE CHAIN HAS A JOINING LINK WITH A PIN GOING THROUGH IT AND A COTTER PIN THROUGH IT .IF SO OK IT IS POSABLE TO TAKE IT OUT ..CHECK PHOTO PS THE ONE IN THE PHOTO IS NOT QUIET THE SAME BUT SHOULD GIVE YOU SOME IDEA .
(http://i992.photobucket.com/albums/af46/jordan8_2009/Capture.jpg)
I think thats also referred to as a "half link" .
Super. Thanks guys.
Do you think it's likely that my C5 chain will have a 'half-link'?
Hi there I think that the original Chain did have the 1/2 link ...if the chain has stretched quite a lot you could take out 1 and 1/2 links and replace it with a normal single split pin link but the chain does not always join back together again due it it being to tight , so you would be better of getting a new chain but you may find that is not a easy as it seems ...what ever you do save the 1/2 link you may need it for the new chain .Ask Karl if he has a chain for sale .....
Thanks mate. Karl, I'm going to try and see if I can get my chain fixed. If I can't, do you have any in stock? Thanks,
Mike
I don't sell them anymore, but Adam does.
I have used a bicycle chain on one of my C5's which was ok - but you have to buy two to make one big enough to fit. I found that a standard bicycle chain still slips a little when pedalling hard up hills, maybe a heavy duty one might work better ?
Okey doke. I'll see what comes of the attempt to rectify the problem, then if I can't sort it, I'll look into buying one. Can't be without that's for sure!
you need to have a good look at the sprocket teeth both ends, to see if they have worn into hook shapes.
but imo it's really an original deign flaw, you have a very long length of chain top and bottom, both spans will tend to flap on every bump, the chain tension design only slightly alleviates but will not cure that problem.
so i'd think it better to do as others have and fit a derailier style tensioner similar as found on sports push bikes, the better springing and figure of 8 designed chain run, is a far better idea and suited for quick reaction to sporadically loosened chains.
regs
Alan
Managed to get the chain sorted at last. A friend has kindly removed a link or two, and no more than that. He said it looks like it had stretched a little, but apart from that, it maintains great shape.
I rode the C5 to his house on Wednesday evening, and went down the same hill that I tried to get to work on at the end of last year. Folks may remember my unfortunate 'blow out' due to the excessive front braking.
Well, this trip was far better than the last. Or at least it would've been had the rear brake lever not snapped off en-route! I had to use my feet on the road to slow me down, as I started to go too fast!
The front brake worked really well though, but it don't harf generate some heat on the metal wheel! I'm surprised it wasn't glowing red! Anyway, whilst my mate is having a look at it, he's offered to take a look at the brake too.
You should not be able to take a link or two out !! That would make the chain far to tight.. (they don't stretch that far)
The conclusion is you don't have a genuine C5 chain fitted...
If the chain is to tight you will bend the rear axle.
I thought that exact same issue would be a problem too Umpa, but the chain is so slack, it's almost touching the road!! I've made it clear to the guy who's offered to have a go that it mustn't be made so that the tensioner is unemployed. I stressed that if he had to take a link or two out, that it must be done so that the tensioner still has something to do.
You're probably right, it may not be a genuine C5 chain at all, but then, I really don't know a C5 chain from any other. It may even be a 'bodged' chain from some other source, but one thing's for sure, and that is that surely it can't go on being so long that it hangs so far that the tensioner spikes are miles away from the chain?
If it doesn't work, I'll ask him to re-fit the links, and see if I can get the local bike shop to take a look.
I bought a new one from Adam, I reckon you should too.
You could be right there mate. However, I've since found out that the chassis may still be slightly bent in another area to that mentioned previously, so it may not yet be the chain at all.
Sorry to not make much sense. I say one thing, then what I thought was the problem turns out to be something else. All part of the learning curve I suppose!
I'll have to wait a while, to see what we can find out. If it's not the chain that is the problem, then I suppose it would be pointless replacing it. I'll keep you posted.
I made my chain with two good ones from the bike shop, but it sill can slip when really having to pedal hard, like the Brooklands hill climb event, so I reckon its worth getting the original from Adam next time
Retro Andy
the chain being close to the road is the most obviousstarting point, i'd agree with others about removing the links, and seems to point to its not an C5 original chain, perhaps a substitute joined from 2 cheap bike chains by previous owner?
once you are happy all is well with the frame please check the sprocket and gear teethe for wear, showing as 'hooks' they should be even on both edges. if this has happened even on a slight back peddle during heavy peddling it can derail the chain.
i'd then go for the correct chain from Adam imo despite the perhaps higher cost.
regs
alan
I dont think buying two bicycle chains from somewhere like Halfords actually works out that much cheaper than buying a correct one from Adam, especially if you end up having to buy a couple of joining links or a chain breaker as well :-\.
At least you know Adams one will fit properly and is up to the job 8)
Just bought one from Adam and it cost a lot less than two normal size chains and all the bits and grief that goes with trying to stick two together. :o
Quote from: PLOD11 on 24, February, 2010 - 23:45:56
Just bought one from Adam and it cost a lot less than two normal size chains and all the bits and grief that goes with trying to stick two together. :o
cheaper alternative is if i ever have to peddle - then i tell the wife to get out of the car and 'push' 8)
It seems my back brake shoes and braking components have been completely destroyed, whilst I made attempts to slow down at about 30mph. So, I've ordered replacement parts from Adam this afternoon.
Should be up and running again in no time.
Quote from: mike7201 on 03, March, 2010 - 16:48:27
It seems my back brake shoes and braking components have been completely destroyed, whilst I made attempts to slow down at about 30mph. So, I've ordered replacement parts from Adam this afternoon.
Should be up and running again in no time.
Grief and pleasure in equal measure - the joys of owning a Sinclair C5 !
Hope you're up and running again soon mate , without it costing too many more beer tokens.
@ 30 MPH - forget the brakes - remove the boot and fit a parachute ;D
if the brakes were to work at that speed, you'd strip the tyres lol!
regs
alan
That almost made me laugh out loud.
That happened to me going down a hill - scary !!
Was the same here mate. Only the front brake was (luckily) a lot more responsive this time. The brake shoes are top notch, and they're able to tolerate heavy demand when they're needed most.
I tend to replace the front brake blocks fairly regular, but the rear brake shoe is the original set, don't know if thats good or bad ?
Retro Andy
At last! My C5 is back in action. :)
I live at the top of a hill, so needed to pull the C5 from where it was being repaired to my house. I had a rope tied to the fron of the C5, and it was quite a journey. I passed a lot of people en-route and passed a couple of pubs.
With the lighter evenings now, there's a lot more poeple out, and as the weather was fair, a lot of people commented on it as I passed. I heard people talking amongst themselves. There were comments like "Cor, look at that, it's a C5" and "I haven't seen one of those for a while".
One person chased me whilst I was pulling the C5 up the hill and asked for a ride on it.
There's just something about a C5 isn't there? It's always a great talking point.
When i reached the top of the hill, I rode it to my local fish and chippery, passing a police car en-route who gave a wave. When I arrived at the chippy, I ordered my tea, and put it in the boot for the journey home.
It worked really well, and is now due for a clean for the summer. I've since found that 'Mr Muscle Kitchen Cleaner' works wonders. Really gets the shell a nice white colour.
So... My Portland C5 is back in service.
Good to hear you're back on the road mate 8)